Why You Need This: Today, you'll discover "Hit The Best Wedge Shots of Your Life Without a Lot of Practice | Bunker, Fairway and Rough"
Are you frustrated with inconsistent chips, pitches, and bunker shots?
Do you struggle to get the ball close to the pin, even after tons of practice?
Mastering the short game – especially in bunkers – requires so many adjustments; it’s like learning a secret handshake!
But there’s a better way.
A tool that’ll simplify your short game…
Imagine hitting high, soft shots from any lie with a simple square setup.
Golf Pros Featured:
Instructors Featured: Clay Ballard
Video Duration: 15:52
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Video Transcription:
Hey, it's great to have you back here. In this video, I'm going to hit a variety of shots of the BX 1 and talk about how that differs from a traditional sand wedge or lob wedge, if I'm playing out of the bunker. Or I'll hit a variety of bunker shots, short shots, medium shots, long shots, fairway, rough, all that, and show you how to use this club.
Now with the BX 1, it's designed to slide through the sand so that it won't dig. So I don't have to open the face. For a short shot, and I'm going to have this little white alignment stick that I stuck on the front of the green here, That's where I'm going to be going toward. I'm going to set up with a square face.
The only way I have to, the only compensation I have to do to judge my distance is the shorter the shot that I want to hit, I just go back a little shorter and then I still swing through firm and make a full finish. So if I want to hit it shorter, I may only take it back to here. A mid range shot, I'm taking it back to here.
A full swing, I'm going to go back to there. And that's going to vary the distance of these shots. So here, let's go to the first flag first. I'm going to make a little shorter backswing, full finish. And we'll see that comes out nice and high and soft. It's a tricky little shot. Not much green to work with.
I've really got to play it high and soft. Really anything just out and on the green with any kind of a chance to make it is a pretty good shot with most, most players. Now, if I'm going to do that with a traditional sand wedge, so here I have a 56 degree. Maybe some players would use a 60 degree. Either one is fine.
60 degree would probably be a little better for this super short shot, but I'm going to have to make some compensations. Now I'm going to have to have the face wide open. When I do that, if I swing normal, the ball is going to go to the right. With a BX1 you can set up with a square face so you just line up to the flag.
When I open this up, it's going to go to the right. Now what I have to do is I have to lower my hand, so I have to get further away from the ball, I have to really bend down with my legs, that's why you kind of see this weird setup with a lot of pro players doing this. They're going to lower the shaft down and now you'll notice that club goes from pointing to the right to when I lower the shaft now all of a sudden that face is pointing toward the target.
Now from there one thing I also need to do is release the club. You see it doesn't have a very wide sole on it so if I start to slam too much down into the the sand or I pick it a little too clean it's going to dig or it's going to stay level. I'm either going to thin the shot or I'm going to chunk it and leave it in the sand.
I need to go ahead and really release the club and get it to thump. Somewhere between two and four inches behind the ball to make that go this, this height here or this distance. Another thing is I'm, on these short shots, I'm really going to have to get extreme. I want the face laid wide open. I want to have my hands super low.
And from there, I'm going to pick the club straight up and down, thump it into the sand, and really try to get that shot to be nice and high and soft. Let's go ahead and give it a whirl. There we go. So there, a great shot. Nothing wrong with that. But again, if I give that to most players, they're not going to have all those compensations lined up.
They're not going to know how much to open the face, how low to get the hands. They're not going to know how hard to swing or how vertical to take it. There's just a lot of changes you have to make there. If I grab the BX one again, I really don't have to do any of that on these short bunker shots. I set up square.
I swing a little shorter through, make sure that I finished my swing and it's going to come out nice and high and soft. There you go, so I can see, almost made that one. Same as the pro shot there, both incredible shots, I'd be very happy with those from this certain situation, but I just don't have to make all the adjustments.
Now let's go to a little longer shot, and I'm going to do all the same things. So if I'm hitting my BX1, I'm going to play it in the middle of my stance, square face. The only difference I'm going to do here, is I'm going to start swinging back to here and swinging through. I'm going to go ahead and swing a little further back.
and make a good firm swing through. Now, this is a fairly tough bunker shot. Most players would be fairly nervous hitting this, even pros, to get it really close because it's about 30, 35 yards away. This gets in that zone of almost impossible shots. The reason for that is if I lay the face wide open and really use a lot of the bounce, I can't quite get it to the hole.
So with my traditional wedge, I have to judge how much should I open it to not get it to go 20 feet and get it to go to the full 35 yards. This club where the bounce is already built in there, I just have to make sure that I swing hard. So here, I'm gonna make a, what I would consider to be a three quarter backswing.
Again, square face, normal setup like I was in the fairway, ball in the middle of the stance. And all I have to do is go three quarter backswing full finish. It'll be a pretty good shot. There we go. That club, you can hear the thump. It sounded just like a pro wedge when I'm using the sole of this BX1. It's cause it has that leading edge bevel.
It acts just like a pros club. But you don't have to open the face, lower the hands, all that stuff. Now, when I use a traditional bunker club, 60 for this shot, especially if I'm using a 60, I can't open the face the way I did this short one. If I open the face pancaked open, so I really had that face open super low hands to get that short shot.
If I do the same thing here, even if I swing full, it's not going to quite get to that flag. So from 30 yards out or so, I'm going to have to open it a little less. From there, I'm going to lower the hands a little less. If I lower the hands the same I did on the first shot, it's going to go to the left. So I'm still going to lower the hands, but slightly less than the other one.
And then I'm going to have to judge how hard to swing to be able to hit a good shot. Now from there, a good shot again, nice and high, but it's a little trickier to judge the distance because I'm changing variables, changing how much the face opens. I'm changing how low to get the hands. I'm changing how hard I swing.
There's multiple variables in play. Where the BX1, all I'm doing is swinging a little farther back, making a full finish. It's a lot easier to judge the distance. Now let's go out to the hardest shot in golf, about a 60 yard bunker shot. Now we're going to take it out. Like I said, the toughest shot in golf.
I'm about 55 yards from the yellow flag there, and I'm going to take a traditional sand wedge and hit this shot. This gets super tricky, and this is why even pros have a tough time with this shot. If I pancake the face open, wide open. And I swing as hard as I can. It will not get to that flag. So now I have to start to close the face more to be able to reach that flag.
Judging that is really, really tough. If I close it a little too much, I catch a little too much ball. I am shooting it over the green into that pond. If I catch a little too much sand, I'm leaving it 20 yards short of this green. So what pros are doing, and really they have a huge advantage here, even though they have this thin sole, that'll still want to dig in the sand a little bit.
They can swing so fast. They're going to open the face quite a bit and they're going to blast this shot out of there. So when I hit this shot, I should be able to hit a fairly good one, but I hit my sand wedge about 120 yards. Normally I'm going to open the face. Some I'm still going to blast it, but I'm going to hit it.
Like I'm hitting 120 or 130 yard sand wedge. Let's go ahead and give it a whirl here. All right. So I crushed that thing. And yes, I got a pretty good shot. I'm about 10 yards from the flag. Now, if you can't hit a 300 yard drive. Unfortunately, that shot's not possible. If you can't hit your sand wedge 120 on a consistent basis, it's not possible to do that.
Now with the BX1, the difference is with this wider sole, it doesn't want to blast as much sand. It keeps the club moving through the sand a little more efficiently. So with this wide sole here, it keeps it from digging. So even though I had an open face, I moved a lot of sand there. Now with this shot, again, tough shot.
I'm not going to lie and say that this is the easy shot with a BX1. That would be, that would be foolish, but it does make it easier. I'm going to go ahead and play this normal stance. I'm going to play it about a ball back. So square face feet toward the target. Instead of being in the middle of my stance, like I'd play a normal shot, I'm going to put it about one ball back in my stance.
Again, I can play it back in my stance. Even if I get a little shaffling with this club, that bevel keeps it from digging. The sole keeps it from digging. I can't do that with the normal design sand wedge. And from here, I'm going to go ahead and make, for me, what would seem like a 3 quarter swing, maybe a little bit more than that.
And it should still get to this flag. Let's give it a whirl. There we go. That's about as good as I'm going to do. And you actually see that ball spinning back on the green. You'll notice how with this one, it didn't quite dig in the sand as much. It didn't move quite as much sand. And really what that is, is this club is getting down into the sand.
But instead of this face grabbing and it keeping on digging and moving a whole lot of sand The sole interacts with it and it turns that downward blow into a forward blow. So no matter how much you hit down It turns that into sliding through the ball and you don't have to be quite as strong To still get one there from even 55 60 yards.
Let's jump over in the fairway and hit a couple shots So here we have quite a bit of fairway and we're gonna have to land it up on the green with this shot There's so much fairway between me and the green. If I hit a bump and run type shot, it's going to land in the fringe and it could be fairly inconsistent just on how it kicks out of there.
That one scooted right through. It turned out all right. The next one may check up in the fringe and be terrible or bounce off that sprinkler that barely missed for this type of shot and most players are going to hit it a little bit higher in the, in the air, so you really don't have, if you can play a bump and run, play a bump and run, I wouldn't worry about hitting the BX one and trying to hit it high and soft if you have the room to play a bump and run, do that.
When you get in this kind of situation where you really can't play a bump and run and it'd be consistent, you're going to have to open the face a little bit. So here I have a 56, I'm going to try to open the face slightly. And when I do that, a couple of things, number one, this thin sole, I got to make sure that I don't dig this in the turf at all.
I'm going uphill into the grain here. And if I start to get the leading edge into this, it's going to really chunk that shot. So if I get any leading edge interaction, it's going to be tough. Number two, I have to open it up and I have to judge how far back and through to get this shot to come out of there.
Now, if you're a really well seasoned short game player, you can probably hit a lot of good shots like that. That's okay. If you're a scratch golfer, you probably don't need the BX1, but if you're a regular golfer and you just want to make things easier, you don't have to make all these adjustments. So there, I had to really be careful on how much turf I hit or it's going to dig.
I had to open the face slightly to get the ball a little higher up in there, and I had to nip it just perfect to get a good shot. Now here, again, this is a 56 degree, I gotta change the face, I have to open it to try to add more loft to it. Even if I have a 60, I'm still gonna try to open that a little bit to get a little higher up in the air and get a little more spin on it.
The BX1 already has 63 degrees built into it, so you don't have to make that adjustment. I can set up with a square face and it's going to play like I already have that 56 with the face open. Now from here also, I don't have to be as worried about thumping the ground. You can hear me hitting the turf, right?
It's not digging as much. I don't need to worry about getting a lot of shaft lean and just nipping it right. I just want to play this big sole, just thump it into the ground, let it slide through the turf and do the work for me. So now let's go ahead and hit one with the BX one square face set up.
Nothing different. I'm just going to go ahead, throw the sole of the club into the ground. Right. And I nipped it just perfect. It came out even higher and softer than the other one. And it's going to start to roll back down to that hole really nice and tight. So here it's just not quite as precise with this wide sole and this big bevel in the front.
I don't have to be quite as precise with the turf interaction. I just throw the back of the sole into the ground and it comes up super high. You can see that one was quite a bit higher than when I was planting my 56 also. So if I have a really tucked shot, it's going to be a lot easier there too. Let's grab a couple more and we'll play it out of the rough.
All right, so let's hit two shots in the rough. The first ball I'm going to drop, I'll hit with a traditional wedge. The second one I'm going to hit with the BX1. Let's go and see how that happens. Now, the traditional wedge shot is setting up better. So, you know, I'm not cheating here. Now, one of the problems when you're hitting out of the rough is if I come in level, I'm going to hit a lot of grass and sometimes it's going to stop the club.
So I need to open the face a little bit if I'm going to get it high. Carry all this rough through here and get it to land soft on the green. I'm going to have to open the face a little bit to take this 56 and kind of turn it into a 62 or 3 degree. If I have a 60, I'm going to open it up another 4 or 5 degrees there too.
I'm going to have to hit down on it a little bit more. And I'm going to have to feel like I really thump the ground. But if I hit the ground too hard, it's going to stop the club again. I just need to feel like I hit, drop it in right behind the ball. So a lot of players really tend to struggle with this.
Because they don't know how much turf to hit, how much grass to hit, they don't know how much to open up the face. But I'm going to have to open up the face here, thump the turf, get it to come out nice and high and soft. And again, if you've hit millions of short game shots, that's completely fine. There's nothing wrong with playing it that way.
But I'm going to have to make 2 compensations, and most players haven't hit 10, 000 or 100, 000 short game shots and practice it like the pros have to be able to make those compensations. Now, with the BX 1, it's a lot easier. Again, I have a worse lie than I did there with the traditional wedge. I don't have to open the face.
It's already got 63 degrees of loft built in, so it's going to come out high and soft regardless. And as long as I hit the ground, that sole is so wide, it's going to really keep on cutting through there. I don't have to worry about digging too far in the ground. I just thump the ground and let it slide across the turf.
Now, this is one compensation I will say that you will have to make with a BX1. If you're out of thick rough, If I play the ball up in my stance or in the middle of my stance, I may hit too much rough. There's some situations to where you're just going to have to play them a little different. With this shot, I'm going to play it back about two ball widths in my stance.
So just a little bit back in my stance. Again, I can still play with a square face because it has enough loft built in to where I can play it slightly back in my stance. It's still going to come out nice and high. This is the only shot you're really going to have to make some compensations with the BX1 and the only compensation or the only adjustment to make there It's played about one to two balls back in my stance.
Now, from there, I just make sure I go ahead and thump the ground, hit the rough, and we can see it comes out nice and high and soft. Really stops good because the loft on the club just lofts it up so soft there that it's not going to roll out and it's going to be a pretty good shot. So this just shows how the compensations that are built into the club, the changes in design that are built into the club make it easier to hit a variety of shots So that you don't have to learn seven different techniques.
If you want to spend the hours to learn the seven different techniques, by all means, that's handy. It's nice to be able to use a traditional club and hit all these different kinds of shots. But if you don't want to practice that much, and you just want to set up to it square, change your stroke length to change the distance and be able to hit all these different shots, then that's really what this club is designed to do.
It's designed for a player that doesn't want to practice that much and learn all these shots. I don't want, I don't know how much to open the face. I don't know how much to lower the hands. I don't know how to make these setup adjustments, and I just want to hit a normal shot. Now, if you go out and you learn all those setup adjustments, you learn how much to open the face in different situations, how much to lower the hands, how hard to swing, how to move around ball placement, then yes, you can become a great player with a traditional wedge.
And if you're a scratch golfer, this is probably not the perfect fit for you. But if you're a golfer that struggles to get it out of the bunker every single time, or that doesn't have the time to practice to learn all those compensations, the BX 1 has it all built in there for you. So if you're interested in getting a BX1, I can't wait to hear about your success with it.
Somewhere around this video you'll see a link or more information to where you can get your own BX1 and I'd love to hear how you do with it. Best of luck. I'll see you soon.
Hey, it's great to have you back here. In this video, I'm going to hit a variety of shots of the BX 1 and talk about how that differs from a traditional sand wedge or lob wedge, if I'm playing out of the bunker. Or I'll hit a variety of bunker shots, short shots, medium shots, long shots, fairway, rough, all that, and show you how to use this club.
Now with the BX 1, it's designed to slide through the sand so that it won't dig. So I don't have to open the face. For a short shot, and I'm going to have this little white alignment stick that I stuck on the front of the green here, That's where I'm going to be going toward. I'm going to set up with a square face.
The only way I have to, the only compensation I have to do to judge my distance is the shorter the shot that I want to hit, I just go back a little shorter and then I still swing through firm and make a full finish. So if I want to hit it shorter, I may only take it back to here. A mid range shot, I'm taking it back to here.
A full swing, I'm going to go back to there. And that's going to vary the distance of these shots. So here, let's go to the first flag first. I'm going to make a little shorter backswing, full finish. And we'll see that comes out nice and high and soft. It's a tricky little shot. Not much green to work with.
I've really got to play it high and soft. Really anything just out and on the green with any kind of a chance to make it is a pretty good shot with most, most players. Now, if I'm going to do that with a traditional sand wedge, so here I have a 56 degree. Maybe some players would use a 60 degree. Either one is fine.
60 degree would probably be a little better for this super short shot, but I'm going to have to make some compensations. Now I'm going to have to have the face wide open. When I do that, if I swing normal, the ball is going to go to the right. With a BX1 you can set up with a square face so you just line up to the flag.
When I open this up, it's going to go to the right. Now what I have to do is I have to lower my hand, so I have to get further away from the ball, I have to really bend down with my legs, that's why you kind of see this weird setup with a lot of pro players doing this. They're going to lower the shaft down and now you'll notice that club goes from pointing to the right to when I lower the shaft now all of a sudden that face is pointing toward the target.
Now from there one thing I also need to do is release the club. You see it doesn't have a very wide sole on it so if I start to slam too much down into the the sand or I pick it a little too clean it's going to dig or it's going to stay level. I'm either going to thin the shot or I'm going to chunk it and leave it in the sand.
I need to go ahead and really release the club and get it to thump. Somewhere between two and four inches behind the ball to make that go this, this height here or this distance. Another thing is I'm, on these short shots, I'm really going to have to get extreme. I want the face laid wide open. I want to have my hands super low.
And from there, I'm going to pick the club straight up and down, thump it into the sand, and really try to get that shot to be nice and high and soft. Let's go ahead and give it a whirl. There we go. So there, a great shot. Nothing wrong with that. But again, if I give that to most players, they're not going to have all those compensations lined up.
They're not going to know how much to open the face, how low to get the hands. They're not going to know how hard to swing or how vertical to take it. There's just a lot of changes you have to make there. If I grab the BX one again, I really don't have to do any of that on these short bunker shots. I set up square.
I swing a little shorter through, make sure that I finished my swing and it's going to come out nice and high and soft. There you go, so I can see, almost made that one. Same as the pro shot there, both incredible shots, I'd be very happy with those from this certain situation, but I just don't have to make all the adjustments.
Now let's go to a little longer shot, and I'm going to do all the same things. So if I'm hitting my BX1, I'm going to play it in the middle of my stance, square face. The only difference I'm going to do here, is I'm going to start swinging back to here and swinging through. I'm going to go ahead and swing a little further back.
and make a good firm swing through. Now, this is a fairly tough bunker shot. Most players would be fairly nervous hitting this, even pros, to get it really close because it's about 30, 35 yards away. This gets in that zone of almost impossible shots. The reason for that is if I lay the face wide open and really use a lot of the bounce, I can't quite get it to the hole.
So with my traditional wedge, I have to judge how much should I open it to not get it to go 20 feet and get it to go to the full 35 yards. This club where the bounce is already built in there, I just have to make sure that I swing hard. So here, I'm gonna make a, what I would consider to be a three quarter backswing.
Again, square face, normal setup like I was in the fairway, ball in the middle of the stance. And all I have to do is go three quarter backswing full finish. It'll be a pretty good shot. There we go. That club, you can hear the thump. It sounded just like a pro wedge when I'm using the sole of this BX1. It's cause it has that leading edge bevel.
It acts just like a pros club. But you don't have to open the face, lower the hands, all that stuff. Now, when I use a traditional bunker club, 60 for this shot, especially if I'm using a 60, I can't open the face the way I did this short one. If I open the face pancaked open, so I really had that face open super low hands to get that short shot.
If I do the same thing here, even if I swing full, it's not going to quite get to that flag. So from 30 yards out or so, I'm going to have to open it a little less. From there, I'm going to lower the hands a little less. If I lower the hands the same I did on the first shot, it's going to go to the left. So I'm still going to lower the hands, but slightly less than the other one.
And then I'm going to have to judge how hard to swing to be able to hit a good shot. Now from there, a good shot again, nice and high, but it's a little trickier to judge the distance because I'm changing variables, changing how much the face opens. I'm changing how low to get the hands. I'm changing how hard I swing.
There's multiple variables in play. Where the BX1, all I'm doing is swinging a little farther back, making a full finish. It's a lot easier to judge the distance. Now let's go out to the hardest shot in golf, about a 60 yard bunker shot. Now we're going to take it out. Like I said, the toughest shot in golf.
I'm about 55 yards from the yellow flag there, and I'm going to take a traditional sand wedge and hit this shot. This gets super tricky, and this is why even pros have a tough time with this shot. If I pancake the face open, wide open. And I swing as hard as I can. It will not get to that flag. So now I have to start to close the face more to be able to reach that flag.
Judging that is really, really tough. If I close it a little too much, I catch a little too much ball. I am shooting it over the green into that pond. If I catch a little too much sand, I'm leaving it 20 yards short of this green. So what pros are doing, and really they have a huge advantage here, even though they have this thin sole, that'll still want to dig in the sand a little bit.
They can swing so fast. They're going to open the face quite a bit and they're going to blast this shot out of there. So when I hit this shot, I should be able to hit a fairly good one, but I hit my sand wedge about 120 yards. Normally I'm going to open the face. Some I'm still going to blast it, but I'm going to hit it.
Like I'm hitting 120 or 130 yard sand wedge. Let's go ahead and give it a whirl here. All right. So I crushed that thing. And yes, I got a pretty good shot. I'm about 10 yards from the flag. Now, if you can't hit a 300 yard drive. Unfortunately, that shot's not possible. If you can't hit your sand wedge 120 on a consistent basis, it's not possible to do that.
Now with the BX1, the difference is with this wider sole, it doesn't want to blast as much sand. It keeps the club moving through the sand a little more efficiently. So with this wide sole here, it keeps it from digging. So even though I had an open face, I moved a lot of sand there. Now with this shot, again, tough shot.
I'm not going to lie and say that this is the easy shot with a BX1. That would be, that would be foolish, but it does make it easier. I'm going to go ahead and play this normal stance. I'm going to play it about a ball back. So square face feet toward the target. Instead of being in the middle of my stance, like I'd play a normal shot, I'm going to put it about one ball back in my stance.
Again, I can play it back in my stance. Even if I get a little shaffling with this club, that bevel keeps it from digging. The sole keeps it from digging. I can't do that with the normal design sand wedge. And from here, I'm going to go ahead and make, for me, what would seem like a 3 quarter swing, maybe a little bit more than that.
And it should still get to this flag. Let's give it a whirl. There we go. That's about as good as I'm going to do. And you actually see that ball spinning back on the green. You'll notice how with this one, it didn't quite dig in the sand as much. It didn't move quite as much sand. And really what that is, is this club is getting down into the sand.
But instead of this face grabbing and it keeping on digging and moving a whole lot of sand The sole interacts with it and it turns that downward blow into a forward blow. So no matter how much you hit down It turns that into sliding through the ball and you don't have to be quite as strong To still get one there from even 55 60 yards.
Let's jump over in the fairway and hit a couple shots So here we have quite a bit of fairway and we're gonna have to land it up on the green with this shot There's so much fairway between me and the green. If I hit a bump and run type shot, it's going to land in the fringe and it could be fairly inconsistent just on how it kicks out of there.
That one scooted right through. It turned out all right. The next one may check up in the fringe and be terrible or bounce off that sprinkler that barely missed for this type of shot and most players are going to hit it a little bit higher in the, in the air, so you really don't have, if you can play a bump and run, play a bump and run, I wouldn't worry about hitting the BX one and trying to hit it high and soft if you have the room to play a bump and run, do that.
When you get in this kind of situation where you really can't play a bump and run and it'd be consistent, you're going to have to open the face a little bit. So here I have a 56, I'm going to try to open the face slightly. And when I do that, a couple of things, number one, this thin sole, I got to make sure that I don't dig this in the turf at all.
I'm going uphill into the grain here. And if I start to get the leading edge into this, it's going to really chunk that shot. So if I get any leading edge interaction, it's going to be tough. Number two, I have to open it up and I have to judge how far back and through to get this shot to come out of there.
Now, if you're a really well seasoned short game player, you can probably hit a lot of good shots like that. That's okay. If you're a scratch golfer, you probably don't need the BX1, but if you're a regular golfer and you just want to make things easier, you don't have to make all these adjustments. So there, I had to really be careful on how much turf I hit or it's going to dig.
I had to open the face slightly to get the ball a little higher up in there, and I had to nip it just perfect to get a good shot. Now here, again, this is a 56 degree, I gotta change the face, I have to open it to try to add more loft to it. Even if I have a 60, I'm still gonna try to open that a little bit to get a little higher up in the air and get a little more spin on it.
The BX1 already has 63 degrees built into it, so you don't have to make that adjustment. I can set up with a square face and it's going to play like I already have that 56 with the face open. Now from here also, I don't have to be as worried about thumping the ground. You can hear me hitting the turf, right?
It's not digging as much. I don't need to worry about getting a lot of shaft lean and just nipping it right. I just want to play this big sole, just thump it into the ground, let it slide through the turf and do the work for me. So now let's go ahead and hit one with the BX one square face set up.
Nothing different. I'm just going to go ahead, throw the sole of the club into the ground. Right. And I nipped it just perfect. It came out even higher and softer than the other one. And it's going to start to roll back down to that hole really nice and tight. So here it's just not quite as precise with this wide sole and this big bevel in the front.
I don't have to be quite as precise with the turf interaction. I just throw the back of the sole into the ground and it comes up super high. You can see that one was quite a bit higher than when I was planting my 56 also. So if I have a really tucked shot, it's going to be a lot easier there too. Let's grab a couple more and we'll play it out of the rough.
All right, so let's hit two shots in the rough. The first ball I'm going to drop, I'll hit with a traditional wedge. The second one I'm going to hit with the BX1. Let's go and see how that happens. Now, the traditional wedge shot is setting up better. So, you know, I'm not cheating here. Now, one of the problems when you're hitting out of the rough is if I come in level, I'm going to hit a lot of grass and sometimes it's going to stop the club.
So I need to open the face a little bit if I'm going to get it high. Carry all this rough through here and get it to land soft on the green. I'm going to have to open the face a little bit to take this 56 and kind of turn it into a 62 or 3 degree. If I have a 60, I'm going to open it up another 4 or 5 degrees there too.
I'm going to have to hit down on it a little bit more. And I'm going to have to feel like I really thump the ground. But if I hit the ground too hard, it's going to stop the club again. I just need to feel like I hit, drop it in right behind the ball. So a lot of players really tend to struggle with this.
Because they don't know how much turf to hit, how much grass to hit, they don't know how much to open up the face. But I'm going to have to open up the face here, thump the turf, get it to come out nice and high and soft. And again, if you've hit millions of short game shots, that's completely fine. There's nothing wrong with playing it that way.
But I'm going to have to make 2 compensations, and most players haven't hit 10, 000 or 100, 000 short game shots and practice it like the pros have to be able to make those compensations. Now, with the BX 1, it's a lot easier. Again, I have a worse lie than I did there with the traditional wedge. I don't have to open the face.
It's already got 63 degrees of loft built in, so it's going to come out high and soft regardless. And as long as I hit the ground, that sole is so wide, it's going to really keep on cutting through there. I don't have to worry about digging too far in the ground. I just thump the ground and let it slide across the turf.
Now, this is one compensation I will say that you will have to make with a BX1. If you're out of thick rough, If I play the ball up in my stance or in the middle of my stance, I may hit too much rough. There's some situations to where you're just going to have to play them a little different. With this shot, I'm going to play it back about two ball widths in my stance.
So just a little bit back in my stance. Again, I can still play with a square face because it has enough loft built in to where I can play it slightly back in my stance. It's still going to come out nice and high. This is the only shot you're really going to have to make some compensations with the BX1 and the only compensation or the only adjustment to make there It's played about one to two balls back in my stance.
Now, from there, I just make sure I go ahead and thump the ground, hit the rough, and we can see it comes out nice and high and soft. Really stops good because the loft on the club just lofts it up so soft there that it's not going to roll out and it's going to be a pretty good shot. So this just shows how the compensations that are built into the club, the changes in design that are built into the club make it easier to hit a variety of shots So that you don't have to learn seven different techniques.
If you want to spend the hours to learn the seven different techniques, by all means, that's handy. It's nice to be able to use a traditional club and hit all these different kinds of shots. But if you don't want to practice that much, and you just want to set up to it square, change your stroke length to change the distance and be able to hit all these different shots, then that's really what this club is designed to do.
It's designed for a player that doesn't want to practice that much and learn all these shots. I don't want, I don't know how much to open the face. I don't know how much to lower the hands. I don't know how to make these setup adjustments, and I just want to hit a normal shot. Now, if you go out and you learn all those setup adjustments, you learn how much to open the face in different situations, how much to lower the hands, how hard to swing, how to move around ball placement, then yes, you can become a great player with a traditional wedge.
And if you're a scratch golfer, this is probably not the perfect fit for you. But if you're a golfer that struggles to get it out of the bunker every single time, or that doesn't have the time to practice to learn all those compensations, the BX 1 has it all built in there for you. So if you're interested in getting a BX1, I can't wait to hear about your success with it.
Somewhere around this video you'll see a link or more information to where you can get your own BX1 and I'd love to hear how you do with it. Best of luck. I'll see you soon.
